From Lake Atitlan to Todo Santos to Coban

Its been a few days without Internet access. We spent a few more really relaxing days at Lake Atitlan. From San Pedro we went to San Marcos, another little lakeside town. San Marcos is set back off the lake in a jungle-like setting. It had a major ex-pat scene (people came and never left) and as a result there was some great food. We walked around, did a little lake swimming, but really just relaxed.

On Thanksgiving we took a boat from San Marcos to Panajachel where we grabbed a shuttle bus to Huehuetenango (pronounced way-way-tenango). From there we grabbed another bus to Todo Santos. Todo Santos is a mountain town.  We had been told by several people that Todo Santos was a place you could really experience a more rural, indigenous life way of life. Its way up in the mountains, with windy dirt roads getting you there. Once there, we were kind of disappointed, at first. There are no real restaurants (and of course I was thinking about my stomach) and it was cold and foggy. The town seemed like a regular town, cement buildings and nothing too extraordinary. But we stuck it out and were glad we did. In the morning the sun came out and we were up in a mountainous valley. With extraordinary views. The people wear traditional clothing and speak a dialect, not Spanish. It warmed up and the lady from our hotel made us a great breakfast (upon request). As for the restaurants, well there really aren't any. There are two - but they are really more like peoples kitchens and you walk in ask what they're serving and sit in a room off the kitchen. This is what we did for Thanksgiving dinner. The food was not great but the experience was. They couldn´t have been kinder and, like everywhere else, there were kids, cats and dogs to entertain Henry. It was really sweet.

The next day we took two great walks and found the rural we were looking for -pigs, goats, sheep, ducks, geese, horses and cows- Henry was in heaven mooing and quacking away. We bought some firewood from a sweet little family (there was a fireplace in our hotel room). Henry lived on Fruit and Papas Fritos for a few days (and loved it) and we found a little taco stand with al pastor tacos. Saturday was market day in Todo Santos and the town was painted purple. The local people wear purple, intricately woven tunics, skirts and collared shirts. They are short and dark skinned and in love with little white, blond Henry. There was an Italian guy living in the town (doing PhD work in anthropology) and he said that he hasn´t seen the people more outgoing and friendly than when with Henry. Henry requires lots of hand washing as everyone touched, held and kissed his hands. He has taken to belting out a loud "NO!" at them when hes had enough. Otherwise he blows a few kisses.

On Saturday morning, after seeing the market , we left Todo Santos with the goal of getting to Coban. Eight automobile changes later (including taxis and shuttle buses) we made it to Coban late last night. Henry was a total all-star trooper. I mean the dude never cried or complained and we were at it ALL day. If it were not for him it wouldn´t have been any fun at all.

Now in Coban were having a low key day. Our hotel has really pretty grounds and is in the center of town. Henry is napping and Daniel is reading on our porch.

We miss you and send our love.

A few tid bits:
1. We lost one of Henry´s shoes on the one of the bus rides to Todo Santos. We were afraid that being in a remote/ rural town would make it difficult to find replacements. Turns out imitation crocs are easy to find, and for only for 2 bucks.
2. Here, Turkey is the big deal center piece for Christmas dinner. And, in Todo Santos, all the Turkeys were out- including one that chased us down the street. So our Thanksgiving turned out to be filled with Turkeys after all.
3. Last night on our way into town there were tons of churches busting at the seams with bands playing, singing and lots of church goers.... this is what we saw as we drove along the windy streets, making our way to Coban.

Our Hotel at San Marcos. Note Henry with his broom - a favorite Central American pastime.

Street Scene at San Marcos (they're not really streets, more like pathways)

Thanksgiving Dinner, Todo Santos

Community Meeting. Check out the hats, embroidered collars and colorful pants.

Kitchen at a restaurant in Todo Santos. Its more like someones home; very intimate and with only 1-2 options. 

Market Day in Todo Santos - the town was painted purple. 

Our Hotel in Coban

Restaurant at our hotel in Coban