From Lake Atitlan to Todo Santos to Coban

Its been a few days without Internet access. We spent a few more really relaxing days at Lake Atitlan. From San Pedro we went to San Marcos, another little lakeside town. San Marcos is set back off the lake in a jungle-like setting. It had a major ex-pat scene (people came and never left) and as a result there was some great food. We walked around, did a little lake swimming, but really just relaxed.

On Thanksgiving we took a boat from San Marcos to Panajachel where we grabbed a shuttle bus to Huehuetenango (pronounced way-way-tenango). From there we grabbed another bus to Todo Santos. Todo Santos is a mountain town.  We had been told by several people that Todo Santos was a place you could really experience a more rural, indigenous life way of life. Its way up in the mountains, with windy dirt roads getting you there. Once there, we were kind of disappointed, at first. There are no real restaurants (and of course I was thinking about my stomach) and it was cold and foggy. The town seemed like a regular town, cement buildings and nothing too extraordinary. But we stuck it out and were glad we did. In the morning the sun came out and we were up in a mountainous valley. With extraordinary views. The people wear traditional clothing and speak a dialect, not Spanish. It warmed up and the lady from our hotel made us a great breakfast (upon request). As for the restaurants, well there really aren't any. There are two - but they are really more like peoples kitchens and you walk in ask what they're serving and sit in a room off the kitchen. This is what we did for Thanksgiving dinner. The food was not great but the experience was. They couldn´t have been kinder and, like everywhere else, there were kids, cats and dogs to entertain Henry. It was really sweet.

The next day we took two great walks and found the rural we were looking for -pigs, goats, sheep, ducks, geese, horses and cows- Henry was in heaven mooing and quacking away. We bought some firewood from a sweet little family (there was a fireplace in our hotel room). Henry lived on Fruit and Papas Fritos for a few days (and loved it) and we found a little taco stand with al pastor tacos. Saturday was market day in Todo Santos and the town was painted purple. The local people wear purple, intricately woven tunics, skirts and collared shirts. They are short and dark skinned and in love with little white, blond Henry. There was an Italian guy living in the town (doing PhD work in anthropology) and he said that he hasn´t seen the people more outgoing and friendly than when with Henry. Henry requires lots of hand washing as everyone touched, held and kissed his hands. He has taken to belting out a loud "NO!" at them when hes had enough. Otherwise he blows a few kisses.

On Saturday morning, after seeing the market , we left Todo Santos with the goal of getting to Coban. Eight automobile changes later (including taxis and shuttle buses) we made it to Coban late last night. Henry was a total all-star trooper. I mean the dude never cried or complained and we were at it ALL day. If it were not for him it wouldn´t have been any fun at all.

Now in Coban were having a low key day. Our hotel has really pretty grounds and is in the center of town. Henry is napping and Daniel is reading on our porch.

We miss you and send our love.

A few tid bits:
1. We lost one of Henry´s shoes on the one of the bus rides to Todo Santos. We were afraid that being in a remote/ rural town would make it difficult to find replacements. Turns out imitation crocs are easy to find, and for only for 2 bucks.
2. Here, Turkey is the big deal center piece for Christmas dinner. And, in Todo Santos, all the Turkeys were out- including one that chased us down the street. So our Thanksgiving turned out to be filled with Turkeys after all.
3. Last night on our way into town there were tons of churches busting at the seams with bands playing, singing and lots of church goers.... this is what we saw as we drove along the windy streets, making our way to Coban.

Our Hotel at San Marcos. Note Henry with his broom - a favorite Central American pastime.

Street Scene at San Marcos (they're not really streets, more like pathways)

Thanksgiving Dinner, Todo Santos

Community Meeting. Check out the hats, embroidered collars and colorful pants.

Kitchen at a restaurant in Todo Santos. Its more like someones home; very intimate and with only 1-2 options. 

Market Day in Todo Santos - the town was painted purple. 

Our Hotel in Coban

Restaurant at our hotel in Coban

Guatemala so far

I know its been a little heavy on the Henry side so far and mostly that's because it has been so amazing  to have this time with him. It feels like it did when I was on maternity leave...inseparable and love. But, Guatemala has been amazing.

We arrived 11/15/11 to Guatemala City and got picked up by our hotel in Antigua, where we had made reservations. Quick drive to Antigua. We stayed at Posada San Sebastian, which was charming and very homey. Antigua was an easy first. Very user friendly and easy to walk around - we saw all the churches and checked out the local market. It has a colonial, Sante Fe like feel. We took a shuttle bus ( 2.5 hours) to Lake Atitlan and landed in the main town that surrounds the lake, Panajachel. It wasn't for us. It consisted of a main strip, without lake views and was just without charm. So we hopped a boat to San Pedro - a smaller town on the other side of the lake. Its a huge hippy, ex-pat scene that is very relaxing, beautiful and a great base from which to explore the other lakeside towns.

This morning we took a day trip to Santiago (a town to the right of San Pedro that sits in between the two volcanoes which surround the lake). We went to the market, saw a church and checked out the famous (infamous) deity statue called Maximon. Maximon is a statue that moves from house to house each year and is on display for worshipers to come admire. When we arrived to absorb whatever spirituality there was to be taken, Maximon was smoking a cigarette. Who knew how spiritual a good ole cigarette could be?! I personally didn't feel spiritually moved, but we got to glimpse some real life while walking down the Guatemalan side streets on our way to Maximon's house. You know, the chickens in the yard, laundry hanging, somebody cooking something while children run around barefoot.. a little slice of Guatemalan life.

 We'll relax here for a few more days and check out a few more towns around the lake then head to Todo Santos, a mountainous, less touristy area that is meant to a beautiful. In the meantime our hotel (for 30 dollars a night) sits lakeside, with gorgeous mountain/volcanic views amidst lush gardens and under an amazing starry sky (Mom, you'll be happy to know Henry said "star" last night).

A few side notes- diapers everywhere, canned corn and peas are easy to find baby food staples. The Guatemalans have been very friendly, no begging and compared to India and Haiti the standard of living seems not as bad. Clearly, however, there is a big discrepancy between our standard of living for a middle class American and for that of a middle class Guatemalan. The weather is shorts and t-shirt weather with an occasional need for a warm layer. We had one cold night in Antigua but we were prepared. And, one of the restaurants here (run by an guy from Idaho) is hosting a real thanksgiving dinner for 10 dollars a person. Henry will be free. :) La vie est belle.

Photo 1 - View from our Hotel, San Pedro, Lake Atitlan

Photo 2 - Local Market, Santiago, Lake Atitlan

 Photo 3 - Henry lakeside, postcard perfect!

Ode to Auntie Char Char

Henry, like his aunt when she was young, has to have access.  For Charlotte, now referred to as Char Char, she had to have access to her belly button. It was part of a finger sucking, belly button rubbing ritual.  Snow suits had to be pinned in the somewhat open position in order to allow for the belly access.  And, in Henry's case its the hair on his head. He yanks off his hat and twirls his strawberry blondish locks around. This ritual occurs prior to bed time, during bottles, pre-nap time or just whenever the urge strikes.

In the morning Mama wakes up with hair like Auntie Char Char's (curly) and Henry yells ¨Char Char!¨

And, no one could have made a more astute acknowledgement on the level of skill needed to take good pictures of a toddler, because they NEVER hold still.

We love you Char Char!

Henry is....

Henry is drinking a whole banana yogurt shake each morning, loving the beans, putting a wooden toy horse to bed each night, not able to escape Justin Beiber (singing "baby,baby,baby ohh.. baby,baby,baby mine), also singing "baby and mama in Guatemala", running around squares and courtyards with abandon, is our international relations guru (if you ever needed to be popular in a foreign country this is the ticket), not wanting to hold hands when crossing the street, still saying "Ohwa" while waving hello, sitting in wooden high chairs at meals, saying "Mama" and "Dada" all over Antigua, smelling flowers, eating lots of papaya and pineapple.

Henry is a busy little guy and our little Guatemalan Traveler.

Antigua- First Stop and First Impressions

Well, its a spanish keyboard, but here we go. We arrived in Antigua, Guatemala. It's very pretty, with cobblestone streets and doors that open into lush courtyards with fountains. Henry is doing great, he says ¨Ohwa¨ (hola) and is loving all the fresh fruit and quesadillas. Daniel and Henry shared some street food (fresh Chicharron ). And, for a non-meat eater Henry got very into it. The flowers that hang over the walls are amazing, and our rooftop view of the volcano and lush hills is pretty amazing. When Henry napped today I read my book, which was so relaxing. Life is pretty good so far in Antigua.

Henry is banging on the computer next to me, to be rendered useless for future travellers. He sends his love!

1 Day to Go

We take off tomorrow. We'll fly into Guatemala City and from there go straight on to Antigua. Right now its all about the last minute packing and running around.

Here is a quick video highlighting Henry's latest articulations... One for the road!

2 Days to Go

11.13.11 - Dinner at the Bakers to fortify us (shells & gluten-free choco cake) for our upcoming adventure. Henry enjoyed the kid kaos. Tuesday we take on the World.