Summer time already!

Its 90 degrees here in Austin. Im serious. Prior to moving Daniel kept warning me "its going to be really hot during the summer." I repeatedly told thim that I knew. But, now I really know. Its hot now, its going to be REALLY hot this summer.

Henry has taken to water. This weekend we went to Uncle Christo and Aunt E-beth's lake house along with 2.5 year old cousin Lucy. It was so fun. And, such a good reminder of why its nice and comforting to have family near by.  They are close family, better friends and just good people. They have a great pool and have set their hot tub to a perfect 85 degrees, making it baby friendly and pregnant-lady friendly (E-beth is about 28 weeks along). It essentially functions as the perfect baby pool. The bubbles are a hit.




Uncle Christo, Lucy and Henry in the hot tub at the Lake!

 Henry has also discovered the endless entertainment of a hose. We turn the water on to a trickle and he is a happy little dude. He chases his mom saying "Mommy wet" trying to get me drenched and when he can't reach me he drops his hose and runs his little naked body over to me and hugs by legs while laughing. So were doing naked, back yard, water play and popsicles after dinner. Its full on summer, which is totally crazy for the New Yorker in me.




Henry, taking a special interest in getting his private parts wet.

 Henry comes home from school every day reciting new songs. It goes like this "Ba ba sheep, yes sir, yes sir" or "Rock bye baby, tree top, fall down." And today the ABCs got closer to the real deal as he added in "L, M, N, O, P, some mumbo jumbo then T, U, V." It is so cute. He loves school. Friday I picked him up just as the afternoon snack was being served. His teachers asked me if I wanted it to go, I said yes and they loaded up a rice cake into a baggy. Perfect, I thought. Well, not exactly. Henry had a fit. He wanted to eat his snack at school. The ENTIRE way home he screamed and cried "school, snack, school." So needless to say I am not picking him up before snack time anymore. Similarly, on two occasions I entered the classroom to pick him up and he said "Mama out." While I didn't think that kind of thing started until the teenage years clearly he is having a great time. What more could I ask for?!

Kenny and Daniel are watching the finals (Kentucky vs. Kansas) and Im just wandering what genetic difference there is between men and women that can account for the extent to which they love it and I just think its ok. Hummmm... thats one to ponder.

So we're looking at two houses tomorrow, I'll go the gym and cook some brocolli rabe pesto pasta with italian pork meatballs tomorrow for dinner... thats whats going on round here.

Cheers.

Austin!

Well, in case you didn't know, we moved to Austin. Its official. We're here!

Let me first pay homage to our amazing friends Kenny, Teresa and Evan Trice. Kenny is one of Daniel's closest friends from growing up... more like brothers than friends. We are living at their house. We have taken up residence in Teresa's Office. During the day Henry naps in our room and at night sleeps in a travel crib in the bathroom. It didn't exactly work, him sleeping in the same room as us. So Kenny and Teresa have lost their office, their second bathroom beginning at 7 pm each evening and any chance of having a peaceful, early morning sleep-in. Henry is awake and asking for Evan (his new best friend in the whole world) bright and early. Us being here hasn't even fazed them. They are unbelievably laid back and have totally allowed us to make their house our house. I can honestly say that so few people are really capable of doing that. I know that I certainly wouldn't be so cool. My neurotic self would certainly come out in full force if we had an entire other family living in our home. The dish washer is running constantly, food is constantly out and being cooked, there are dogs running around. Its chaotic, but fun. They are amazing.

I wouldn't be telling the truth if I were say that our landing in town was seamless. Our first few days here we had moments of shear terror "What have we done", "Atlanta was so amazing", "We had it so good." Luckily, those moments were usually balanced by excitement and a realization that Austin really is super cool. It reminds me a lot of Seattle. The minimalist approach to landscaping (called xeriscaping) and the hilly neighborhoods make me recall the early days of our Seattle life. The city is SMALL, certainly compared to Atlanta. And, the real estate market is OUT OF CONTROL! There was never a real estate recession in Austin, the houses go like hot cakes and they cost a fortune (literally).

So, although discouraged by the house hunt and without a job (yeah, i need to get going on that) Henry has landed in a great daycare. I am SO impressed with his teachers, he is talking more, acting more independently and just a total sponge - he LOVES school, Austin and Evan. Our little man is having a blast.

We are getting there.. slowly but surely. It helps that we've been invited to friends and our cousins for dinner and are really being welcomed with loving, open arms. Central Market rocks (the main grocery store in town) and I ate at Uchi two nights ago. Uchi is one of the best and hottest restaurants in the country. The chef was recently runner up on Bravo's Top Chef. It was GOOD.

We'll keep you updated on life in our new City. So far so good. Come and Visit!

Re-entry and life on the return

Re-entry, defined as coming back to reality after two months of traveling in Central America, has had its ups and downs.

The down side: Well, after two months of someone else cooking and cleaning, washing dishes is a total bummer. The dedicated time we had together as a family, which felt like a magical bubble, has burst.  We tromped around as a happy little threesome. It was sweet, loving and just so wonderful.  Here, the phone rings, there are bills to pay, boxes to pack (oh yeah, we're moving very soon), social logistics to organize and a 21 month old who needs constant entertainment and attention (the outdoor and communal style of living that our trip provided really allowed him, and us, a sense of freedom which doesn't exist in our culture). I think I expected the bubble to stay in tact upon our return, given that we are both around. Clearly, though, coming back to reality has to happen... unfortunately.

The up side: We have returned to wonderful neighbors and friends who we missed and with whom we are trying to spend a lot of time with prior to moving. Henry returned to our house and, to him, it felt like Christmas. Our house, in comparison to the toys we brought on our trip, is like a toy store. He has loved the abundance of books and toys at this disposal. His first romp around the house was adorable to watch, as he hugged, examined and enjoyed his toys. Henry is talking more and really getting to know people by name. It has been so fun to watch him talk to his various grandmothers on the phone. Today he said "Bye-bye Mimi, Love you."

So the writing of a blog, I think, will go on. I have loved jotting down our lives' activities and sharing thoughts, feelings and experiences. I am clearly not the only one. Every other Tom, Dick and Irene has a blog. Some are better than others but I think people blog for themselves more than for others. Its an outlet. And, if someone appreciates it or likes it than the all the better.

I think the blog with morph a bit. So, for those of you out there who are reading.. I'd love for you to stick around. If it takes a turn and hits you with a "get me outta" here, Ill understand.

A logistical note: I have gone back and edited all the entries from our trip. I have added websites and more information for those of you who may want to make a trip down to Central America (which I highly suggest you do). Also, I have gone back through each entry and attached pictures that illustrate that which I was speaking about, or which take place in the locale about which I was writing. Please peruse and enjoy.

Henry eating Gallo Pinto on Little Corn Island in Nicaragua.  He's sitting in a big boy chair and using a spoon, all by himself. Oh, the growth that occurred while en route - I will try not to tear up!

Mama and her most special boyfriend embracing on the beach at Little Corn Island. 

A little light reading on the plane ride home. 

Life on a Little Corn

Life on a Little Corn isn't too shabby. Yesterday we had a game of coconut catch. We hiked the beach and trails to the northeastern part of the Island to a private, little beach. In lieu of a ball we grabbed a coconut and had us a game of catch. Henry, being a true boy, in the wacking, ball loving, wrestling sense, loved it. And, the best part of using a coconut as a ball is that they float. So, Henry can loft it into the water and up it will come.. right back to his awaiting hands. The sea was turquoise and the beach was all ours.

Our place has $2 rum drinks from 5-7 pm. They feature some house specials. One in particular that has struck my fancy is the Casa Caipirinha. Oh boy, its awesome! A little sugar and two limes thrown into the bottom of a class, then crushed up together, then add ice, 2 shots of rum, some pear juice and you got yourself one hell of a drink. My other island favorite is the Pina Colada at this place down the beach.... theirs is topped with roasted, sweet coconut shavings. It's devine. I just dont think that life is going to be this way when we get back.

Turquoise waters.. oh, and this is the view from our bungalow!

Speaking of which, letting go is hard. Its been a bit of a struggle negotiating the ending of this trip. Now when I say struggle, lets keep it in perspective- no major life threatening illnesses or catastrophic natural events or poverty... so when I say struggle its all relative. Tomorrow is the last full day of our trip. On Tuesday (Jan 17th) we will take a boat and two planes and land back in Atlanta. I am beyond grateful for my time off, time with my men and all that we have taken in. Life is better when you get to see how other people live. Its been amazing. I am sad to see it end.

This is one I'll hold on to... always!

As Henry says "bye-bye, ciao, ciao!"

Traveling with a toddler

We got a lot of comments prior to leaving for our 2 month Central American adventure with our 18 month old in tow. Some close friends said "Dont take him to Central America", some said "Your Crazy!", some said "Are you nervous?" and some said "Thats awesome!" Here is what I think after 2 months of traveling in Central America with an 18-20 month old.

Traveling with a toddler is only as hard as it is to parent a toddler. There are great days and there are really difficult days. Parenting, as any parent will tell you, isn't easy. Toddlers challenge you, say "NO" back at you, look at you and do exactly what you just told them not to do, they climb like real monkeys (on everything), if your toddler is boy they dig in the dirt and wack things. Toddlers run away from you, refuse to hold your hand when they need to, spit out the food they don't like, scream when they don't get their way and hurt themselves frequently. Toddlers do this regardless of what country you live in or where you are from.

And, clearly, there are those who would argue that all of this is easier to deal with in a familiar environment, with a regular schedule and all the normal amenities and luxuries of normal, everyday life. This is all true, to a certain extent. We have made certain concessions while traveling with Henry that we wouldn't make if we were at home. For example, here, when Henry wakes up in the middle of the night Daniel gets up out of bed and rubs his back and soothes him back to sleep. At home, we wouldn't necessarily go to him in the middle of the night and soothe him back to sleep. I am a believer in the "they need to learn how to soothe themselves back to sleep" theory or method or whatever it is. And, we are still giving Henry a bottle before bed. This is certainly something I would have cut out by now if we were at home. However, in Hotels, I can't handle the anxiety that would accompany letting him "cry it out" in the middle of the night knowing our neighbors would likely hear. And, the bottle, like it or not, soothes him and allows me the assurance that he is hydrated and getting the vitamins and electrolytes that I know he needs (we give him formula, not milk because of lack of access to a refrigerator). These are "deviations" from our normal parenting plan that we discussed and agreed to prior to leaving. And, they have worked and allowed us a better trip. They are also things, that when we get home, are going to change. He will have to "cry it out" and he wont get a bottle anymore. And, yes, the transition might not be fun for a few days. But I just remind myself that it takes 3-5 days to break a bad habit. Some advice I picked up in all my reading during his infancy. Its awesome advice to keep in mind and helps reduce anxiety about post-trip transitions. All this to say, decide what your going to concede ahead of time, make peace with it, and know that when you get home you can work it out.

Traveling with kids is challenging no matter where you are going. You have to plan ahead. Do you have enough diapers? Enough wipes? Toys or entertainment? Whether its a flight from ATL to NYC or a flight from ATL to Nicaragua these things need to be considered. And, frankly, you have to be organized. Its not fun to be rummaging the bags for a quickly needed wipe and not being able to find it regardless of what country you're in.

There have been days on the road that I have needed a Nanny 911 emergency hotline.. but isn't that how it goes at home too?!

And, how much more awesome is spotting monkeys in the jungle, watching the sunset over the El Salvadorian coast or touring an amazing Central American colonial town with your little, amazing kid who now says "Hola" and "Gracias" and hopefully has learned to adjust and accomodate and appreciate all that he has to return home to... I say go for it..... travel with your toddler.

Travel with your Toddler, says Henry!

The Corn Islands

We are on Little Corn Island. Its 8 miles away from Big Corn Island, which is about 45 miles off the Caribbean Coast of Nicaragua. The water is spectacularly turqoise and the beach has white, white sand. Our spot at Casa Iguana (www.casaiguana.net) is pretty amazing, with a killer view of the Caribbean, where we ate amazing Coconut French Toast for breakfast this morning. Life is pretty good on this little Island.

View from the main lodge at Casa Iguana, where we ate some yummy breakfasts. 

View out onto the water, Little Corn Island

This morning we hiked the little trails (there are no cars or roads on Little Corn) to the north end of the island. We plopped ourselves on a little beach and splashed around. Henry is SUCH a beach baby. He literally lies in the sand as the waves crash on him. And, getting him out of the water and dried off is a sad time for him.

Surfs up on Big Corn Island for little man

Big Corn Island grew on us but wasn't quite the paradise we were looking for; it was such a dicotomy of poor local living and what could have been an amazing tropical paradise. The beaches have all the makings for perfect- white sand, turquoise water.. but the trash which collects on the beach is CRAZY. And, the Island's poverty is pretty overt with shacks, shoeless and torn-clothed kids everywhere.

Picnic Beach, Big Corn Island

We found a cute little spot (La princesca de la Isla, www.laprincesadelaisla.com), which was run by some crazy italians (crazy in a good way). The place sat at the end of a long beach and right off the property were several shacks in which lived tons of kids. They would come and play with Henry on the beach. It was such an honest and memorable scene with little white Henry running and laughing and playing his heart out. The kids would build a huge sand mound, pick Henry up and plop him atop it. Then they would surround him and sing Happy Birthday in English, Spanish and Creole. It was so cute. Everytime he stood up the bigger kids would brush the sand off his bottom and hands. And, when he ran into the water they would pull him back to safety. They were wonderful little babysitters. Henry blew them kisses when we went inside and they all blew kisses back... it was such a sweet and wonderful moment. One I hope Ill never forget.

Our bungalow at La Princesca

Henry contemplating life while we ate breakfast at La Princesca

Henry is a hit with the locals!

I am trying to focus on really enjoying and soaking up the remaining days of our trip.

Isla de Ometepe

It has been Island life for us for the last several days. We hit Isla de Ometepe, a large island in Lake Nicaragua. It's a huge island (takes 1.5 hours or so to get across) and has 2 huge volcanos on it. For those of you who know, it kind of reminded me of Star Island; the ferry doesnt always run if the weather is too wild and like any island, supplies run out. There is just no sense of urgency or a real time schedule. Its a beautiful island though. Its lush, green, filled with birds, flowers, farm animals and is surrounded by water. The lake itself is huge; so huge that when you look out over the water there is no land in sight, unless its a very clear day.

One of two volcanos on Isla de Ometepe

Umm, its an island..with two volcanos.. one on either side of the island?!

We stayed at Little Morgans (http://www.littlemorgans.com/), a backpacker friendly place. We had our own cabana, which was a little separated from the main quarters, thereby giving us the space we need for early morning festivites. Henry has become quite the early riser. And, there is no being quiet. So, we could be on our porch, looking at humming birds and laying in the hammock while he ran around with a stick wacking things or digging in the dirt. There were mosquitos, slugs and a snake visited our bathroom. Not a big one, but a snake nontheless. I HATE SNAKES. Daniel was off checking internet so I had to deal with it on my own. I was very brave.

View from our bedroom door at our bungalow at Little Morgans

Getting around the Island was kind of a chore but also kind of added to the rustic and exotic sense of the place. We walked 30 minutes one evening to dinner. Cafe Campestre (http://ometepe.moonfruit.com/) was so worth the walk, and it was such a pretty walk. We saw baby pigs, a big moon and an awesome twilight view of the volcanos. The food was gourmet, homemade and such an amazing find in the middle of no where.

The ever delicious and quaint Cafe Campestre

Henry and Mama on the ferry leaving the island (left).

Now we're back in Granada. Today is a lazy day of doing laundry, running errands and eating at our favorite spots. Tomorrow we fly to the Corn Islands. We'll be on Big Corn for 3 full days then Little Corn for 3 full days. Its supposed to be a Carribean paradise. I'm excited for a little lazy beach life.

After the Corn Islands we head back to Guatamala for 2 full days in Antigua and then home.

I am amazed that our trip is coming to an end. On the one hand Im ready to go home and then again, its sad. Its been so amazing and such an amazing time with my men. Little man is talking up a storm. We made a list of all his words last night and then today he starting speaking in (sort of) sentences. He busted out with "Henry chair" today.. letting us know he wants his own chair.

And, Big Man is equally but uniquely amazing; reminding me not to settle for that which is mediocre. He is such a wise and balanced soul. Sometimes I am just in awe of the fact that I was lucky or smart enough to marry him, let alone know him. We've had amazing food, seen amazing sights, met amazing people and viewed some amazing scenery. Central America is pretty awesome.

Here we come tropical paradise! Keep your fingers crossed the weather is good.

Granada and Happy New Years!

From Leon, Nicaragua we moved on to Granada. We have been here for, roughly, one week. Its been great and by far our most favorite spot in Nicaragua. Its charming, got a colonial/carribean type feel...the old refurbished buildings are painted in pastel hues with columns and quaint, palm shaded courtyards.

Our hotel is amazing. Hotel Con Corazon (http://www.hotelconcorazon.com/) is a nonprofit that directs earnings towards the education of local kids. Its modern yet charming and has some luxuries... hot water. Yup, hot water is a total luxury and although its not really necessary it hot climates such as this, its nice to have a little warmth every now and again. There is a pool, and that has been a bonus especially in the eyes of the young one. Our afternoons consist of a little swim, followed by showers, followed by cocktails and a great dinner out. There are some fabulous restaurants in Granada. Kathy's Waffle House serves a kick-ass breakfast including awesome smoothies and delicious banana pancakes.  Garden Cafe has great sandwichs to match its peaceful garden ambiance and two restaurants register in the category of best dinners ever, those being Imagine and Encuentros.

Hotel Con Corazon.. view of the courtyard from the second floor

Hotel Con Corazon, a little sanctuary nestled in the city of Granada

Church, off the main square in Granada

There are several great day trips from Granada and so its been a great spot for a home base, allowing relaxation, allowing Henry to get his daily naps and also allowing us to still see what there is to see. We checked out Volcano Masaya- its an active Volcano, and as the guidebook says, in any other country there is no way you´d be allowed to view the steam it spews from its crest. The sulfurous, gasy smoke makes you cough when the wind sends it your way, and you feel, as you look at it, that you have landed on the moon. The whole place has an air of unease. Its pretty amazing and pretty barren, in a out-of-this-world kind of way. We also took in the view of Lake Apoyo... a lake that is adjacent to Granada. Granada, and the piece of land its on, is wedged in between two lakes, Lake Apoyo and Lake Nicaragua. So the view of Lake Apoyo includes that of the city and Lake Nicaragua. Its beautiful. 

Daniel and Henry standing alongside Masaya. Yup, thats a gas mask!

Lake Apoyo

We also drove through a little town  (called Catarina, known for its green houses and bright tropical plants that visitors take home to plant in their gardens) in the midst of celebrating a saint, whose name we couldn't quite catch. Everyone comes baring gifts of fruit and flowers by the wagon load. They were all placed in a huge, but pretty pile next to the town's chuch. There was a band. Apparantly the towns people give the gifts to the saint, and later the church then sells back the fruit to the people so the fruit doesn't go to waste and the church makes some money. Not bad, huh? Pretty smart way to make a buck or two. Nonetheless, it was a pretty scene and the fruit and flowers were certainly beautiful in their colorful abundance.

Another day trip was a two hour boat ride through Las Isletas..a bunch of tropical, tiny islands off Granada's coast in Lake Nicaragua. It was pretty. There were monkeys to whom we fed a banana; not something I'd normally do, but did.

Las Isletas

Monkey time!

There is a serious rocking chair culture here. Families, elders, everyone and anyone sit on their stoop in a rocking chair. And, when you look into the open doors of their homes there are always rocking chairs; usually about 6-8 sitting in a circle or around a coffee table. Last night, at all the new year´s eve parties, there were people sitting around socializing in their rocking chairs. It’s a total riot.

Last night at midnight everybody, and I mean everybody, hit the streets with fireworks. For ten minutes at midnight, there was a non-stop display. The sky was flooded with bursts of color and the sound that accompanied it woke us. Oh yeah, we were in bed and asleep by 9:30. It was better than any fireworks I've ever seen, anywhere. The whole sky, across the whole city was busting with color. Truly crazy.

New Years Eve dinner

 All the loot, left over on New Years Day

Happy New Years! May it be safe, happy and filled with good travel.

We´re off to Isla de Ometepe tomorrow. Internet will be sparse..